The “Queen of Jewels,” pearls have been a symbol of luxury for eons. Like the precious gems, designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla’s couture is known for their royalty and grandeur. Following the designers’ new pearl couture collection, we caught up with the two in an exclusive conversation, wherein we traced pearls’ roots in fashion in the Indian sub-context.
“Pearls are deeply spiritual. Their beauty is rare, their lustre exceptional. They are bringers of ethereal grace, glamour and sensuality. Like the colour white, pearls are a divine reminder of Heavenly grace and eternal elegance that whispers and does not scream,” they recite. The jewel’s comparison to the heavens and spirituality is not rare, with one of the first instances dating back to ancient Greece, where pearls were compared to the tears of the Gods.
In conversation with designers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla
The allure of pearls is almost as timeless as its versatility. Over the years, the simple gem has caught multiple eyes on global platforms. Paired with sleek dresses as simple earrings or even as a statement pearl necklace, the precious gems have even been assimilated into clothes themselves; an innovation born out of haute couture. “Pearls are versatile and adapt beautifully from minimalist grace when used as a minor element in couture to maximalist spectacular effect when used in abundance. They are timeless and never lose their relevance or impact. They retain elegance and grace even when used in extravagant couture,” ace couturiers Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla noted. The designers are known for their experimental work with pearls; revolutionising the use of gems with their extravagant designs.
The History of Pearls
“The Pearl is the queen of the gems and the gems of the Queens,” famously said Grace Kelly, the Princess of Monaco and Alfred Hitchco*ck’s favourite lady lead. The ‘Rear Window’ star was no stranger to high society both on and off screen; seen more than once donning the classic pearls. Her quote was not too far off the mark, as the gems were considered a symbol of royalty, exclusive to the rich. So much so, that even the oldest known pearl jewellery was found in the sarcophagus of well, a Persian princess from 520 BC. The rare natural pearls were prized possessions of the rich aristocrats, nobles and royal families across different ages and kingdoms. From the origin of Persia and the Byzantine Empire to the Ancient Egyptians and the Greeks, they were highly revered. 16th century England especially saw the stone infiltrate high society, even referred to as the ‘Pearl Age’ because of the gem’s popularity. Since then, not much has changed regarding the symbolism associated with the gem whilst it has become more accessible to the common man over the years.
India’s Pearl Trail
“In Hindu culture, pearls are associated with the moon and symbolize purity and love. Even one of the earliest myths about the origin of pearls comes from a Hindu book. The Supreme God Krishna descended into the ocean where he discovered the first pearl and gave it to his daughter on her wedding day. The pearls were to protect the bride from widowhood, to ensure a happy married life and fidelity. But pearls could also accelerate the laws of karma and strengthen love relationships,” the designers share. While the stories around the birth of pearls in India may differ in mythology and history, the common narrative says pearls travelled to India from the Arabian Gulf, following suit with the grandiose lifestyle of the Nizams of Hyderabad. “Since time immemorial, pearls have been considered a symbol of great wealth, wisdom, charm and good fortune. Beyond their lustrous beauty, pearls symbolize purity, wisdom, and enduring elegance, resonating with grace and sophistication. Pearls have an eternal traditional cultural significance in India,” Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla add. As pioneers in India’s fashion industry, the duo are no strangers to enduring elegance.
Pearls and Couture
As front runners of timeless couture designs Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla are stalwarts in the use of pearls. Birthing corsets and dresses made completely out of pearls the designers have many a pearl innovation to their name. “Couture for us is about creating the absolute finest. Exceptional beauty that transcends flippant trends and gimmicks and instead becomes a lasting standard of style. Pearls are perfectly positioned to exude this eternal style in the form of couture. They possess a celestial quality and glamour that is steeped in understated elegance. Pearls pack a powerful style punch that seduces the senses like no other. Their grace mirrors the grace of fabulous couture created using the finest handcraftsmanship and creative imagination. Pearls bring out the Goddess in a woman. The Heavenly Apsara,” the designers believe. An apsara would be the perfect way to describe Alia Bhatt at the Hope Gala in London where she wore a vintage resham saree paired with a bustier pearl stringed blouse by the designers. Natasha Poonawalla’s outfit was even bolder at Anant Ambani and Radhika Merchant’s pre-wedding festivities in Jamnagar, where the celebrity donned an ensemble featuring multitudes of pearls of various sizes.
But close to nothing tops Deepika Padukone’s pearl collar at the Cannes 2022. “For the closing ceremony of the Cannes Film Festival 2022, we conceptualised a look that celebrates Deepika Padukone as a heaven-sent Apsara or Divine Being. Her ruffle saree was a delicious confection of metres and sensuous, light-as-air fabric. The focal point of her ensemble was a dramatic pearl and crystals encrusted collar covering her entire neck and shoulders. It was painstakingly handcrafted using meticulously graded pearls and crystals to spectacular effect. The saree was later showcased at the Design Museum in London for ‘The Offbeat Saree Exhibition’. The look was so iconic that it led to a profusion of copycat pearl collar designs in the fashion industry for months and months after its debut,” the designers told us.
Following the continued success of their pearl designs, the designers recently launched the ‘Pearl Collection,’ once again marrying the worlds of couture and pearls. “With this Collection we have made pearls the centrepiece and focal point of contemporary luxury couture, combining the nuances of rich subtlety and ethereal sophistication,” they tell us. “ The collection is an accomplished meld of timeless elegance and cutting-edge, contemporary design. The fabulous fluidity and understated beauty of pearls elevated to create mind-altering glamour. This unique combination brings movement and majesty to each garment, allowing the pearls to dance gracefully as haute couture,” the designers note.
Hero and Feature images: Courtesy Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla/ IG
(The information in this article is accurate as on the date of publication.)
Pearls AJSK Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla History of pearls
